Length, float and foam. Three things that you will be thanking the big man above when things get a little dicey out in the aquamarine playpen. Search for the peak, get in early, but don't late drop like JJF cause you will be wishing your sword was 12 inches smaller.
Is that you God? No, it's Laird Hamilton on a tug boat snaking you and almost castrating you crew. Tow generation benefits come with a steep price, literately and figuratively. Don't let your inner baby ego convince you that 10k and 400-made-barrels is worth the persecution.
Are you going to step it up? Slabby pits, late drops, shallow reef. Thats what narrow dims, round tails and some beef in the chest is used for. This weapon of choice should only be weilded by only greats, for the consequences are more than a bruised ego.